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RE: Front or rear...track bar or stabilizer? I'm sooo confused
Thanks for the responses. Now, how difficult is it to install a rear track bar? Can anyone post a photo of it installed? Thanks
I agree ... the rear trac bar is your solution. If you want to see pics, do a search on TRAC BAR and you'll find what you're lookikng for. Also, think there is a pic on the Henderson website too.
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sonuvabug
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12/03/08 07:11am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Bigfoot Closing it's doors
... snipped ... we seem to be regressing more and more into a disposable society ... IMO the world could use a lot less junk and more quality.
I agree. When you buy cheap, you usually end up buying the same thing again or sooner. I just look at my tools and see the many duplicate "cheap" ones I have and then I see the one good quality one of the same kind I should have bought in the first place.
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sonuvabug
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11/26/08 06:28am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Worn Out Shocks After 8000 Miles??
Factory installed shocks simply are not that good and do wear out quickly. KYB is a decent brand ... but not that common for use in the RV world. I went with the Bilsteins. My second and more expensive choice were the Koni's.
Personally, the Munroe's are not a brand I'd go with as enough posters have reported them wearing out over time vs. the Bilts or Koni's which truly seem to be a "lifetime" shock.
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sonuvabug
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11/25/08 02:26pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: how important is it to have fuel full during winter storage?
A full tank of gas will stop condensation from occurring in the gas tank. It would be a good idea to put a fuel stablizer in the tank to to keep the gas fresh and if you have a generator to run it in it to.
100% agreement with woolfy.
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sonuvabug
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11/25/08 02:15pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Changing Out The Onan 4000 In A Winnie 29B
When we bought our RV it came with a gas Onan 4000 that wouldn't work. I took it out and took it to the nearest shop that had an Onan factory certified tech. He was a small business guy who ran pretty much a one man show.
After a couple of days, he called to say the needed replacement parts list cost alone was climbing over $1,500 (there was lots wrong) and that did not include his time. He advised not to proceed with the repairs.
I paid him $55 for his diagnostic time and to his surprise, gifted the unit to him ... to cannibalize for whatever usable parts he could get out of it for the next job. You may wish to get a second opinion but do not be surprised ... these Onan units are very expensive to repair.
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sonuvabug
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11/21/08 08:56am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Bigfoot Closing it's doors
If the firms that appeared to be doing everything right and building a quality product are going down, then we should be worried ... very, very worried. It's time for positive, results producing action!
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sonuvabug
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11/20/08 12:39pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Opinion needed on overheat potential E350 or E450
I'd be interested in the final verdict if you do go with a front cargo box. I've considered mounting the Stowaway Cargo Box product on a front receiver hitch but am worried about airflow to the radiator issue as well. ~ bugjr ~
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sonuvabug
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11/18/08 06:49am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: HID Lights on Class C
As bulbs burn out, I am replacing all my vehicles with Silverstar Ultras (sold in 2 bulb kits) and they have made a sigificant difference. ~ BugjR ~
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sonuvabug
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11/17/08 07:46am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: your FIRST motor home won't be your last
... snipped ... should be getting the Chateau in about four weeks.
Congrats Jaybird. I know you put a lot of love and care into your old rig and I'm sure the new one will receive the same attention. ~ bugjr ~
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sonuvabug
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11/14/08 07:04am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Looking for manual on 83 Ford Jamboree 450ci 24'
I just bought an 83 Ford Jamboree Rallye 24ft. with 450ci engine, and it seems very clean, low mileage (70k).
It's likely your engine will be the carburated 460c.i.d. (7.5 liter) V-8 motor coupled with a C6, 3 speed automatic transmission. You should be able to get FORD manuals for the chassis workings at Helms. (just Google Helms).
Good Luck. Half the fun is getting to know and futzing around with your rig. ~ bugjr ~
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sonuvabug
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11/14/08 06:58am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: You Know Those State, Provincial Coloured Maps
Thanks for sharing everyone. Some really good ideas ... especially the one about having guests (grandkids or whoever) apply the sticker. What a neat way to create a "Kodak memory moment" for everyone. ~ bugjr ~
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sonuvabug
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11/13/08 10:23am |
RV Lifestyle
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You Know Those State, Provincial Coloured Maps
This topic has been moved to another forum.
You can read it here: 22087332
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sonuvabug
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11/10/08 11:42am |
Around the Campfire
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You Know Those State, Provincial Coloured Maps
We've been thinking about getting a couple of those "outlined" maps of the USA and Canada that you fill in once you've RV'd in those states, provinces or territories.
Question is ... what qualifies for a "fill in". Is it simply that you drove through the area? That seems way too easy and almost like cheating.
I am thinking about a guideline for us that says we must have camped at least one night in order for a state, province etc. to qualify to be filled in.
What guidelines do you use? :h ~ bugjr ~
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sonuvabug
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11/10/08 11:42am |
RV Lifestyle
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RE: time to replace aging tires?
Instead of getting everyone's personal opinion on this forum, why don't you go to the website of the tire manufacturer?
Michelin, for example, states that after 5 years, and every year thereafter, have the tires inspected by a qualified tire technician, and if you had no need to replace them before that, replace them at TEN YEARS.........
Having spent 40 years in the tire business, I am not a proponent of automatic replacement after just a few years, provided they still have good tread and sidewall cracking is within tolerance.
My opinions.
+1 ... Well stated!
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sonuvabug
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11/10/08 11:22am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: First Posting
Welcome aboard this board Anne! :) You've come to a place that has great people, great advice and lots of useful information.
I too suggest you get familiar with the "search" function. If you have a question ... you are probably not the first one to ask it and you'll find many topics have previously been thoroughly discussed and well documented. Cheers and happy trails! ~ bugjr ~
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sonuvabug
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11/10/08 10:57am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Broken City Water Check Valve?
I want to extend a really big thanks to Bill for PM'ing me and offering to post my pic (see above posted pic). Bill also suggested the following which I am going to try.
Bill suggested: "If you remove the 4 screws and look behind you will see a female plastic fitting screwed onto the metal male end of your water valve. You just unscrew the valve and the whole plastic piece comes loose with the valve.
You can try to hunt down a new plastic with factory built in valve or easily cut out the old valve and fit a new valve onto your plastic and screw it on. See pic I made up below. The fix will be easy and not difficult even if you are not that handy. Total cost of job is the price of the valve ($10+-) and a little time. "
Bill, you are the kind of terrific member that makes this forum so great!
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sonuvabug
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11/10/08 10:51am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Broken City Water Check Valve?
Does it look like this? Can be purchased as a single unit just as seen in the pic. Has both water inlets. Cost unfortunately is about $35-40. So pricey, I would try to fix the one you have if possible.
http://images.campingworld.com/is/image/CWI/20000/21925n.jpg?wid=230&hei=230&op_sharpen=1&layer=1&src=CWI/logo.gif&sizeN=0.3,0.3&posN=.32,.3&opac=20
Yes it sort of looks like the pic you posted but I only have the one city water inlet in my plastic housing. The fresh water holding tank inlet is about 10 feet away nearer to the front of my rig. I suppose I could buy this type fixture and not use the fresh water hole or purhaps they have one with just the city water inlet.
I think my first step will be to start with taking off the plastic housing and trying to see what's behind the female brass coupling. I like RckyMtnTJ's approach of installing simple shut off valve (pics jeff?) but not sure where to put it as there isn't much room around the coupling when the door is closed. ~ bugjr ~
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sonuvabug
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11/10/08 08:59am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: 8 Point Check at Camping World
Chlirod ... I feel your pain. I've had a heck of a time with Parkway, our local Ford truck dealer here. They offer full commercial truck bays and service but when its time to check things out or chase down a problem on my E350 based rig ... it's the old "replace and hope it works" game. They even lied to me ... the Dealer Principal admitted this when following up on a complaint letter I sent to him. He was great and really tried to make things right. However, his staff certainly don't get it and botch his efforts up ... again! I'm just waking away.
I know things are complex and such but I too get frustrated with the incompetence and high degree of indifference many service providers shovel onto their customers.
There is no excuse for the runaround you got from the CW techs/service advisors. Shame on them! Consider writing a letter to the CW Dealer Principal and tell him/her your tale.
BTW - May I suggest you replace your rear air stems with extended valve stems (not valve extensions). I did and have never looked back. ~ bugjr ~
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sonuvabug
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11/06/08 01:07pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Broken City Water Check Valve?
OK, I took a few pics to post of my city water inlet valve and housing showing my check valve setup ... only to find out that unless the pics come from a website's URL, I can't post them directly from my PC. Is this correct?
Anyway, I'll describe what I have. My city water access is a solid piece of formed plastic with a lockable door that is mounted to the RV's surface and built into the side of the rig. The female hose coupling is brass (exactly the same as the female end of a garden hose). The check valve is somehow imbedded inside this coupling.
There are no screws in the water coupling/check valve housing that can be removed and replaced (like the one in BillArf's pic). My entire housing setup is "unibody" ... that is, the brass female end coupling comes through a hole in the plastic housing and somehow is fastened from behind the larger plastic housing.
It appears as if the only way to remove the female coupling where the chckvalve resides ... is to first take off the city water inlet plastic housing from the RV (there are four screws on the outside) and then see if that allows for access from behind to remove the brass female coupling and check valve.
Does this make sense? Sure wish I could upload a pic beacuse 1 pic would replace a thousand words here. ~ bugjr ~
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sonuvabug
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11/06/08 12:20pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Buying a C class in Canada
go to autotrader on-line, select "RV", select whatever province you want and voila ... you'll have lots to choose from.
I know there's lots for sale in our Mid-Western Ontario area.
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sonuvabug
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10/27/08 12:34pm |
RVing in Canada and Alaska
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